Hey folks. I've entered in a miniature painting competition and a component of that is that the image of my model needs a bunch of likes. If you could go to the GW wellington page and like my entry I'd appreciate it.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=277648215591004&set=a.276711652351327.65714.196918670330626&type=3&theater
Saturday, October 29, 2011
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Weathering and Battle damaging 40k Tanks: Part Two
Here it is. The article you've all been waiting for. Painting your battle worn tanks. I have had more people coming to me and harassing me to complete this series than any other. Sorry for the delay.
Right, first things first. If you are going to hand base coat the model the first thing you will need is a really big Brush. I used a Citadel Large Drybrush.
Now, not to belabour the point, the one i make every time I give out painting advice. WATER DOWN YOUR PAINTS!. It's important to do this with any model but it is even more important with tanks. You will be laying down a lot of paint in one hit so if the paint isn't watered down say goodbye to all the detail. If you have to do more layers to get good cover so be it. I went with a 2:1 ratio paint to water.
Next, I basically drowned the model in Badab Black wash. Don't be afraid to really pile it on. you want to get a pretty muckey look in the end and this will help give your paint work a basis for the patchy weathered paint job we're after.
So far so good. Now if I wanted to take this to a pristine finish this would be where we go back and do cover coats and highlighting, but this is a beast of war! No pristine polish will grace it's form. So now we go straight into a nice heavy layer of rust.
Get yourself some Solar Macharius Orange and water it down a bunch then apply it to the model using a fairly vigorous stabbing motion so that the paint blobs and splatters onto the surface on the model.
Once this first layer has dryed go through and do it again with a different orange. In this case Blazing Orange.
The key with the stippling is you want things to look rough and patchy, so the first layer of orange should be visible in patches.
Now we move on to the metallics.
Finally we want some evidence of paint which has not yet been worn away. To achieve this first give the model a nice soothing bash in your finest Devlan Mud wash. Then stipple your base colour back on while the wash is still a bit wet.
This will leave your model with the finish below. Give any battle damaged areas a little going over with the bolt gun metal to make them stand out and you're good to go.
Next time out we get onto the dirty tricks and non paint techniques. Oh and how to paint the Melta damage
Till then, Have fun with what we've covered so far.
This Week In Warhammer.
Hey folks and welcome to yet another post which isn't one of the ones I've promised, but hey, Content is content, so lets get on with it.
Last weekend my Chaos army saw it's first outting. I played Jeremy and his (filthy) Darkelves in a 1000 point game down at GW Wellington. I had a blast. and My army got smashed to pieces. Both our sorcerers detonated taking chunks out of the units they were with. He annihilated my unit of knights early on, taking out a quarter of my army in one hit. The game wound down to a close with my Knights, my Warriors and my warhounds all glaring at me from the dead pile, and only my Marauders still wandering around. We ended up calling it rather than playing out a couple of turns of movement till his big pointy units could catch and evicerate them. It was extremely entertaining.
So, on to what I've got planned for the next few days...
The Three day Challenge
This week I have fled the fair city of Wellington for a hermatage somewhere in the boonies of the manawatu. My intent whilst hiding away in seclusion is to get a number of projects done. The first will be to post the next part of the Weathering and Battle damage articles. In addition I have given myself the following tasks.
1. Island of Blood: Paint all the Skaven in Three days, and as much of the Highelves as i can manage.
2. Dreadfleet: Paint as many of the ships as possible and get at least one finished for the competition.
3. Badab War: Work out my painting methods for the upcoming Badab war campaign at GW Wellington.
4. LOTS of BLOGGING.
So what will you, my glorious readers get out of this three days of madness? Well first up there will be plenty of pictures of the various projects as they progress Secondly there will be a number of new articles.
I'm thinking How to paint white, for the High elves. Stupidly fast painting, for the Skaven. And painting and battle damaging silver marines for the Badab war. Also possibly, painting for competitions, army themeing and maybe a few other articles.
So on with the madness.
See you soon.
Last weekend my Chaos army saw it's first outting. I played Jeremy and his (filthy) Darkelves in a 1000 point game down at GW Wellington. I had a blast. and My army got smashed to pieces. Both our sorcerers detonated taking chunks out of the units they were with. He annihilated my unit of knights early on, taking out a quarter of my army in one hit. The game wound down to a close with my Knights, my Warriors and my warhounds all glaring at me from the dead pile, and only my Marauders still wandering around. We ended up calling it rather than playing out a couple of turns of movement till his big pointy units could catch and evicerate them. It was extremely entertaining.
So, on to what I've got planned for the next few days...
The Three day Challenge
This week I have fled the fair city of Wellington for a hermatage somewhere in the boonies of the manawatu. My intent whilst hiding away in seclusion is to get a number of projects done. The first will be to post the next part of the Weathering and Battle damage articles. In addition I have given myself the following tasks.
1. Island of Blood: Paint all the Skaven in Three days, and as much of the Highelves as i can manage.
2. Dreadfleet: Paint as many of the ships as possible and get at least one finished for the competition.
3. Badab War: Work out my painting methods for the upcoming Badab war campaign at GW Wellington.
4. LOTS of BLOGGING.
So what will you, my glorious readers get out of this three days of madness? Well first up there will be plenty of pictures of the various projects as they progress Secondly there will be a number of new articles.
I'm thinking How to paint white, for the High elves. Stupidly fast painting, for the Skaven. And painting and battle damaging silver marines for the Badab war. Also possibly, painting for competitions, army themeing and maybe a few other articles.
So on with the madness.
See you soon.
Sunday, October 16, 2011
This week in Warhammer
Hey folks.
It's been a weird week for me all up. I've been job hunting recently and this week saw the fruits of this search. I worked a day shifting furniture, the first in 9 months leaving me a broken husk of a man. I also had a scary intense job interview which may see me land a proper job with an income which might allow me to support my hobby a little better. But hey. Y'all didn't come here to hear about the dreary goings on in my "real" life. You came here for hobby goodness.
This week I've been working on a couple of projects for the upcoming painting competition at GW Wellington. I'm working on another Pirate conversion, which is coming along nicely and not only features some cool conversion stuff, but also some of the best freehand work I've done in a long time. I'm also having a go at an Interrogator Chaplain in Terminator armour, which will one day grace my Dark Angels army. For him I've stuck pretty much to the original model but I've done a bunch of work on the base. I'll post pics of these in the not to distant future.
I've also been chugging through my Dreadfleet stuff. I've been aiming at around two ships a week and so far the Black Kraken and Grimnir's Thunder are pretty much done. The Swordfysh and the Curse of Zandri are well on their way and I've started the base coats on the Seadrake and the Shadewraith. These ships are a real blast to paint and make a welcome change from the intensity of painting competition standard models. The White Dwarf has been invaluable for getting the ships through their basic stages and getting the colours I'm after. I've then added a few sneaky tricks of my own to take them up a bit more and the end results are looking pretty awesome. Pics to come.
Today (well yesterday if my clock is right) I had my first proper game of Dreadfleet, in which I took control of the mighty Grimnir's Thunder and had a thoroughly smashing time. First I was smashed into by the Bloody Reaver who gave me a solid drubbing leaving me with 2 points of hull damage. Then I was smashed again by a wayward living tsunami, which rocked me for another couple of points on the hull. Then there was the final smash as my ship hit the sea bed having sunk due to being on -2 hull points. Admittedly not the finest showing for the proud Dwarven race, but there shall be a reckoning! Gordon, Captain of the reaver and Staff member at GW Wellington. I hear-by enter your name into the book of Grudges for damage to the pride of Barak Varr. And Jarrod, my treacherous team mate, for loosing a Living Tsunami so close to a stricken comrade, you too shall be judged. It was however a super fun (if a little short for me) game.
Right now I'm Having a think about some ideas for a campaign to be run in store for Warhammer Fantasy, and I'm thinking about up coming projects for if I do manage to get this job I'm trying for.
Coming soon to Bellum Malleus:
- Part Two of Battle Damaging and Weathering 40k tanks.
- More Path of Chaos
- Dreadfleet Pics and progress
- Planning a themed army
- Painting competition entries, pics and advice on how to give yourself an edge.
Cheers Folks
It's been a weird week for me all up. I've been job hunting recently and this week saw the fruits of this search. I worked a day shifting furniture, the first in 9 months leaving me a broken husk of a man. I also had a scary intense job interview which may see me land a proper job with an income which might allow me to support my hobby a little better. But hey. Y'all didn't come here to hear about the dreary goings on in my "real" life. You came here for hobby goodness.
This week I've been working on a couple of projects for the upcoming painting competition at GW Wellington. I'm working on another Pirate conversion, which is coming along nicely and not only features some cool conversion stuff, but also some of the best freehand work I've done in a long time. I'm also having a go at an Interrogator Chaplain in Terminator armour, which will one day grace my Dark Angels army. For him I've stuck pretty much to the original model but I've done a bunch of work on the base. I'll post pics of these in the not to distant future.
I've also been chugging through my Dreadfleet stuff. I've been aiming at around two ships a week and so far the Black Kraken and Grimnir's Thunder are pretty much done. The Swordfysh and the Curse of Zandri are well on their way and I've started the base coats on the Seadrake and the Shadewraith. These ships are a real blast to paint and make a welcome change from the intensity of painting competition standard models. The White Dwarf has been invaluable for getting the ships through their basic stages and getting the colours I'm after. I've then added a few sneaky tricks of my own to take them up a bit more and the end results are looking pretty awesome. Pics to come.
Today (well yesterday if my clock is right) I had my first proper game of Dreadfleet, in which I took control of the mighty Grimnir's Thunder and had a thoroughly smashing time. First I was smashed into by the Bloody Reaver who gave me a solid drubbing leaving me with 2 points of hull damage. Then I was smashed again by a wayward living tsunami, which rocked me for another couple of points on the hull. Then there was the final smash as my ship hit the sea bed having sunk due to being on -2 hull points. Admittedly not the finest showing for the proud Dwarven race, but there shall be a reckoning! Gordon, Captain of the reaver and Staff member at GW Wellington. I hear-by enter your name into the book of Grudges for damage to the pride of Barak Varr. And Jarrod, my treacherous team mate, for loosing a Living Tsunami so close to a stricken comrade, you too shall be judged. It was however a super fun (if a little short for me) game.
Right now I'm Having a think about some ideas for a campaign to be run in store for Warhammer Fantasy, and I'm thinking about up coming projects for if I do manage to get this job I'm trying for.
Coming soon to Bellum Malleus:
- Part Two of Battle Damaging and Weathering 40k tanks.
- More Path of Chaos
- Dreadfleet Pics and progress
- Planning a themed army
- Painting competition entries, pics and advice on how to give yourself an edge.
Cheers Folks
Friday, October 7, 2011
Weathering and Battle Damaging 40k Tanks: Part One
Hey folks.
I've finally managed to stay awake for writing time for the first time in a couple of weeks so I thought I'd better thrash out this weathering article now.
For the weathering project I decided to go with a Spacemarine Vindicator tank. I've always liked this model. It's a big Brutal siege tank with a massive Demolisher cannon, designed for smashing the defences of heretic scum. I also decide to use this opportunity to do up a model for the Raptors Chapter, which have to be one of my favourite factions of the legions Astartes.
Here is an image of the model once I had striped off the old paintwork.
As you may be able to see, I have used grey stuff to model in Weld lines. I'll cover how to do this kind of detailing in a future post. Today is for weathering and damage.
To start with I wanted to have some bullet holes and divets in the the Vindicator's armoured hide. These are illustrated in the unfortunately blurry photo below along with some scrapes and the beginnings of a melta damage hole (I'll get to these later in the post)
To make the bullet holes take a pin vice and drill a hole a few millimeters deep. Then take a modeling knife and put the point in the hole and twist it round so you get a ragged edge. (Be careful the blade doesn't break) This gives a nice little bullet hole to show a direct hit. For a ricochet get a little Green stuff and role it into a ball a couple of mm wider across than your drill bit. Drill a hole in the surface you want the ricochet on and press the ball into it using a round tipped tool. Draw the tool down to squash the greenstuff aside leaving a rim at the top. (See below for a clearer image)
The Melta holes were made by drilling a hole and expanding it by twisting a modelling knife around in the hole until it reached the desired radius. I then used some Green stuff to build up a rim and some dripping metal. I was aiming to make it look like the melta had caused the armour of the Vindicator to boil away.
The trick with melta effects actually comes from the painting, so I'll give you a glimps at the finished effect below, but the how to paint bit will be in the next episode.
In the Image to the left and above you can also see gouges in the armour. This is achieved by cutting a v shaped channel into the plastic surface with a modeling knife.
Anyway, here's that Melta damage.
That cover's the Pre paint work. Now Bung a Black spray undercoat on it and next time we'll talk about the paint. That is to say, achieving weathering and battle damage with paint effects. Then there will be a final article in the series covering the use of weathering powders and a couple of nice little cheats to take the model to the next level.
Cheers folks.
I've finally managed to stay awake for writing time for the first time in a couple of weeks so I thought I'd better thrash out this weathering article now.
For the weathering project I decided to go with a Spacemarine Vindicator tank. I've always liked this model. It's a big Brutal siege tank with a massive Demolisher cannon, designed for smashing the defences of heretic scum. I also decide to use this opportunity to do up a model for the Raptors Chapter, which have to be one of my favourite factions of the legions Astartes.
Here is an image of the model once I had striped off the old paintwork.
As you may be able to see, I have used grey stuff to model in Weld lines. I'll cover how to do this kind of detailing in a future post. Today is for weathering and damage.
To start with I wanted to have some bullet holes and divets in the the Vindicator's armoured hide. These are illustrated in the unfortunately blurry photo below along with some scrapes and the beginnings of a melta damage hole (I'll get to these later in the post)
To make the bullet holes take a pin vice and drill a hole a few millimeters deep. Then take a modeling knife and put the point in the hole and twist it round so you get a ragged edge. (Be careful the blade doesn't break) This gives a nice little bullet hole to show a direct hit. For a ricochet get a little Green stuff and role it into a ball a couple of mm wider across than your drill bit. Drill a hole in the surface you want the ricochet on and press the ball into it using a round tipped tool. Draw the tool down to squash the greenstuff aside leaving a rim at the top. (See below for a clearer image)
The Melta holes were made by drilling a hole and expanding it by twisting a modelling knife around in the hole until it reached the desired radius. I then used some Green stuff to build up a rim and some dripping metal. I was aiming to make it look like the melta had caused the armour of the Vindicator to boil away.
In the Image to the left and above you can also see gouges in the armour. This is achieved by cutting a v shaped channel into the plastic surface with a modeling knife.
Anyway, here's that Melta damage.
That cover's the Pre paint work. Now Bung a Black spray undercoat on it and next time we'll talk about the paint. That is to say, achieving weathering and battle damage with paint effects. Then there will be a final article in the series covering the use of weathering powders and a couple of nice little cheats to take the model to the next level.
Cheers folks.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
More Piratey Awesomness
So last weekend was the release of Dreadfleet. The game was fantastic, I wore a costume and much fun was had by all. I'm sure you're all dying to know how I went in the Pirate conversion competition.
Drum Roll Please.
I came Last. I also came second. Ruan's Orky pirate was truly awesome and he got a much deserved victory. My Pirate turned out pretty much exactly as I wanted him, but not very Warhammer-esque. Here are a couple of photos of him painted and stuff.
The paint job isn't too special I'm afraid.
Drum Roll Please.
I came Last. I also came second. Ruan's Orky pirate was truly awesome and he got a much deserved victory. My Pirate turned out pretty much exactly as I wanted him, but not very Warhammer-esque. Here are a couple of photos of him painted and stuff.
The paint job isn't too special I'm afraid.
And here is Me in the costume the conversion was based on.
Future Piratey goodness is on the way, with some Dreadfleet articles.
If you're interested in seeing Ruan's Pirate conversion go check out the GW Wellington Facebook page or shoot in to the hobby center and check it out in person whilst it's still there.
Cheers.
Path of Chaos Part one: How to Paint an Army
As promised. Here is the first of the reprints of the Path of Chaos Blog. I've been a bit rundown of late and haven't had much chance to write new stuff. Hopefully this will tide those of you who haven't read it over till I'm feeling a bit better.
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Painting an army
Hey folk, and welcome to the first of my posts on the actual methods I am using to build and paint this army.
Well we're getting toward the end of week one of the Army builder challenge and I've made quite a bit of progress. As you may already know, the idea behind the challenge is to paint one unit a week, building toward a 1000 point army over the coarse of the month. Well in week one I've gotten a little carried away and painted my first unit (20 Marauders) and my General (Tzeentchian sorcerer) and, as of typing this, I have just about completed the second unit (10 Warhounds). So in today's post I'll give y'all a rundown on what I did with the Marauders.
I tend to have two modes of painting. The first is meticulous and involves a lot of obscure techniques and arcane murmmerings which I shall not get into here. The other is army painting mode. This involves getting the models in question painted to a good game ready paint level in the shortest time possible.
The Three Foot Rule:
When painting an army it is important not to get too hung up on the look of each individual model. At the end of the day people won't be viewing each model up close and personal. They'll be looking at them from the other side of the table (hopefully as you march to glorious victory over their forces). This being the case you want to get each unit looking good from around three feet, hence the three foot rule.
Here are my top tips for getting an army done quicky.
First off, assemble and paint each unit by using a factory line. For assembly start by glueing all the legs to their bases, move up the body in stages attaching the same pieces to all the models in the unit before moving on to the next stage. With painting, start by dry brushing all the metal surface on every model then paint all the brown then the next colour and so on.
The next tip is to keep things neat. This tends to be quite difficult if you're going really fast (and it's the advice I'm worst at taking myself) but try to get each colour on neat and smooth and only in the places where you want it. The neater you are at the base coating stage, the less work you'll have to do later.
Ink wash is your friend. You can save a lot of time on some models by making good use of washes. If used properly you can get away with just base coating your models then giving them a good coating of the appropriate wash.
Keep it simple. Keep the number of colours for any given unit to a minimum. Where possible it is best to pick one metal colour, one cloth colour, one flesh colour and one detail colour. From here you can expand with a high light for each and a few variations for hair and the like. By keeping to a limited pallete you'll give your unit's a cohesive appearance and cut down on time for application.
Bright colours draw the eye, so spend a little more time getting them looking good. Make sure they are applied neatly and are well defined. it'll distract from shortcuts you may have taken in the darker areas of the miniatures.
Finally, base the models well. Make use of flock and static grass. If the unit is based well it'll look that much better.
Once you've got the army to a playable level you can always revisit it later and add highlights and details you might want. In this way you'll be playing with a fully painted army sooner rather than later.
So, that being said, here's what I did with my Marauders. (I won't bother with the details of assembly, see the tips above for how i went about that.)
First up I picked the palette I would be working with. They were as follows.
Tallarn Flesh
Hormagaunt Purple
Bleached Bone
Calthan Brown
Scorched Brown
Ultramarines Blue
Chainmail
Charadon Granite
Adeptus Battlegrey
These were backed up by the following washes.
Badab Black
Devlan Mud
Astute readers may have noticed that there are a few more colours in my list than the tips above suggest. This is because there are a lot of similar types of items on the Maruaders, the boots straps pants and loin cloths could have all been done in the same shade of brown but I was worried that if I did that it would make all these details blend in together too much. So instead I decided to make each of these things a different colour. As long as you stick to the plan of painting all the miniatures in a factory line you'll still get through them quickly, just not as quick as if you had used less colours.
The first thing I did was I went through and dry brushed all the metal components with Chainmail. This means all the weapons helmets and steel gut plates. I always try to do drybrushing first if I can so as not to run the risk of getting Chainmail all over the other colours later.
Next I painted all the skin on the models with Tallarn flesh. I then painted all the pants with Scorched Brown. Once these had dryed I ran a thick wash of devlan mud over the flesh and the pants. I then went back over the flesh with talarn flesh again making sure to leave some nice shady areas to give the skin depth.
The next stage was to go through and paint the detail items. The wrist band got Ultramarines Blue. The fur, Adeptus Battlegrey, The boots Charadon Granite and the horns Hormagaunt Purple (weird I know but trust me) The belts and straps I painted with Calthan Brown. Then i went back to the horns and painted them Bleached bone leaving thin lines of the hormagaunt puple showing. All these area then got a thick wash of Badab black. The horns also got some devlan mud.
The last stage on the main body of the miniatures was to paint their hair. For this I went outside my pallete using blondes, Reds and browns to get a little variation.
Finally I painted the shields. When painting shields it is a good idea to remember, The shield is a large and very noticable feature of the model, so you want it to really pop. to do this I went with Ultra marines Blue and Chainmail as My major colours. The Ultramarines blue got a blue ink wash to really get the colour to bounce. The chainmail was washed with watered down Badab black. Then I glued the shields in place.
At this stage I took a look at the models and checked for any patches I'd missed or needed more definition. Those That had been missed got a touch up and some areas got a little more Black wash. Then it was time for Basing.
To base the models I started with Citidel basing sand. This was painted black. Dry brushed with Graveyard earth and then given a few patches of Static grass. Personally I like to keep static grass to patches as I feel it looks better this way.
So, that was it. Unit one done. I started it on Monday and was done by Friday having spent roughly 1-2 solid hours a day on them. The really time consuming thing with this technique is always waiting for the washes to dry. You can speed things up by using a hair dryer on low, but be warned. You may end up pushing the wash to different areas of the model. It is better to use the time to work on something else, like your character models or something.
Below are some pics of the Marauders at various stages of their creation. I'll go into more detail on the sorcerer and the banner in the next post.
Cheers folks.
Ben
Well we're getting toward the end of week one of the Army builder challenge and I've made quite a bit of progress. As you may already know, the idea behind the challenge is to paint one unit a week, building toward a 1000 point army over the coarse of the month. Well in week one I've gotten a little carried away and painted my first unit (20 Marauders) and my General (Tzeentchian sorcerer) and, as of typing this, I have just about completed the second unit (10 Warhounds). So in today's post I'll give y'all a rundown on what I did with the Marauders.
I tend to have two modes of painting. The first is meticulous and involves a lot of obscure techniques and arcane murmmerings which I shall not get into here. The other is army painting mode. This involves getting the models in question painted to a good game ready paint level in the shortest time possible.
The Three Foot Rule:
When painting an army it is important not to get too hung up on the look of each individual model. At the end of the day people won't be viewing each model up close and personal. They'll be looking at them from the other side of the table (hopefully as you march to glorious victory over their forces). This being the case you want to get each unit looking good from around three feet, hence the three foot rule.
Here are my top tips for getting an army done quicky.
First off, assemble and paint each unit by using a factory line. For assembly start by glueing all the legs to their bases, move up the body in stages attaching the same pieces to all the models in the unit before moving on to the next stage. With painting, start by dry brushing all the metal surface on every model then paint all the brown then the next colour and so on.
The next tip is to keep things neat. This tends to be quite difficult if you're going really fast (and it's the advice I'm worst at taking myself) but try to get each colour on neat and smooth and only in the places where you want it. The neater you are at the base coating stage, the less work you'll have to do later.
Ink wash is your friend. You can save a lot of time on some models by making good use of washes. If used properly you can get away with just base coating your models then giving them a good coating of the appropriate wash.
Keep it simple. Keep the number of colours for any given unit to a minimum. Where possible it is best to pick one metal colour, one cloth colour, one flesh colour and one detail colour. From here you can expand with a high light for each and a few variations for hair and the like. By keeping to a limited pallete you'll give your unit's a cohesive appearance and cut down on time for application.
Bright colours draw the eye, so spend a little more time getting them looking good. Make sure they are applied neatly and are well defined. it'll distract from shortcuts you may have taken in the darker areas of the miniatures.
Finally, base the models well. Make use of flock and static grass. If the unit is based well it'll look that much better.
Once you've got the army to a playable level you can always revisit it later and add highlights and details you might want. In this way you'll be playing with a fully painted army sooner rather than later.
So, that being said, here's what I did with my Marauders. (I won't bother with the details of assembly, see the tips above for how i went about that.)
First up I picked the palette I would be working with. They were as follows.
Tallarn Flesh
Hormagaunt Purple
Bleached Bone
Calthan Brown
Scorched Brown
Ultramarines Blue
Chainmail
Charadon Granite
Adeptus Battlegrey
These were backed up by the following washes.
Badab Black
Devlan Mud
Astute readers may have noticed that there are a few more colours in my list than the tips above suggest. This is because there are a lot of similar types of items on the Maruaders, the boots straps pants and loin cloths could have all been done in the same shade of brown but I was worried that if I did that it would make all these details blend in together too much. So instead I decided to make each of these things a different colour. As long as you stick to the plan of painting all the miniatures in a factory line you'll still get through them quickly, just not as quick as if you had used less colours.
The first thing I did was I went through and dry brushed all the metal components with Chainmail. This means all the weapons helmets and steel gut plates. I always try to do drybrushing first if I can so as not to run the risk of getting Chainmail all over the other colours later.
Next I painted all the skin on the models with Tallarn flesh. I then painted all the pants with Scorched Brown. Once these had dryed I ran a thick wash of devlan mud over the flesh and the pants. I then went back over the flesh with talarn flesh again making sure to leave some nice shady areas to give the skin depth.
The next stage was to go through and paint the detail items. The wrist band got Ultramarines Blue. The fur, Adeptus Battlegrey, The boots Charadon Granite and the horns Hormagaunt Purple (weird I know but trust me) The belts and straps I painted with Calthan Brown. Then i went back to the horns and painted them Bleached bone leaving thin lines of the hormagaunt puple showing. All these area then got a thick wash of Badab black. The horns also got some devlan mud.
The last stage on the main body of the miniatures was to paint their hair. For this I went outside my pallete using blondes, Reds and browns to get a little variation.
Finally I painted the shields. When painting shields it is a good idea to remember, The shield is a large and very noticable feature of the model, so you want it to really pop. to do this I went with Ultra marines Blue and Chainmail as My major colours. The Ultramarines blue got a blue ink wash to really get the colour to bounce. The chainmail was washed with watered down Badab black. Then I glued the shields in place.
At this stage I took a look at the models and checked for any patches I'd missed or needed more definition. Those That had been missed got a touch up and some areas got a little more Black wash. Then it was time for Basing.
To base the models I started with Citidel basing sand. This was painted black. Dry brushed with Graveyard earth and then given a few patches of Static grass. Personally I like to keep static grass to patches as I feel it looks better this way.
So, that was it. Unit one done. I started it on Monday and was done by Friday having spent roughly 1-2 solid hours a day on them. The really time consuming thing with this technique is always waiting for the washes to dry. You can speed things up by using a hair dryer on low, but be warned. You may end up pushing the wash to different areas of the model. It is better to use the time to work on something else, like your character models or something.
Below are some pics of the Marauders at various stages of their creation. I'll go into more detail on the sorcerer and the banner in the next post.
Cheers folks.
Ben
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